The Dreadful Tapu of Blood
For hundreds of years after a brutal massacre, the South Taranaki pa of Turuturu-Mokai lay abandoned and shunned in horror under a powerful blood tapu.
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| "Spoils to the Victor" Louis John Steele 1908 |
CONTENTS:
History - the attack on Turuturu Mokai resulting in the blood tapu
The lifting of the tapu
Photographs of my visit to the site in November 2018
Access to & location of Turuturu Mokai + Google maps
The lifting of the tapu
Photographs of my visit to the site in November 2018
Access to & location of Turuturu Mokai + Google maps
HISTORY:
Like many sites in New Zealand, this pa (near Hawera) has a chilling pre-European history.
Historian John Huston tells the tale:
Many a pa of the old pre-European days was practically impregnable when attacked by a war party using native weapons. For this reason, more forts of the days before white man came were captured by stratagem, surprise or starvation than by actual assault - and a most ingenious stratagem caused the downfall of this ancient pa.
Although the tribes of Taranaki do not appear to have carried war into the territories of other tribes to any extent, local history discloses that the tribes and sub-tribes of Taranaki were almost continuously at war among themselves for hundreds of years.
For some reason long forgotten, long and bitter enemity existed between the neighbouring Taki-Tupaea and Taki-Ruahine (both sub tribes of Ngati-Ruanui) who feuded off-and-on for many, many years. However, some 300 years ago there was peace for a time between the two hapu.
During this temporary cessation of hostilities the Taki-Tupaea people (in occupation of what is now called Turuturu-Mokai ) were lulled into false security by time, but their old enemies still bitterly brooded over past events and cherished bloody vengeance: UTU!
The warrior chiefs of Taki-Ruahine conceived a brilliant and cunning plan whereby their tribesmen would be able to inflict a salutary defeat on the unsuspecting Taki-Tupaea, and so settle the outstanding account for vengeance, utu, once and for all.
In those days there was in Taranaki a tohung-ta-moko (tattooing expert) who was famed for the artistry and symmetry of his designs. The services of such an artist were at all times in great demand. It so happened that at that time this tohunga with his assistants was on a visit to Taki-Ruahine Pa. The leaders of that pa craftily proposed that the artist should visit the great fortress of Ngati-Tupaea and offer his services to the young warriors of that place. The garrison of Turuturu-mokai very naturally had no suspicion of any ulterior motive behind in the suggestion. They very readily assented, thus playing into the hands of the people of Taki-Ruahine. The young men were very eager to take advantage of the opportunity of being moko’d by such a revered artist and thereby gaining much mana for themselves, and increasing their likelihood of victory in any future martial contests.
Central to the plot was that particular attention should be given to engraving designs on the hips and thighs of the warriors. These were ‘rape’ (a curvilinear design on the hips) and ‘puhoro’ (a jagged design portraying lightning) on the thighs. The latter was considered to give the young warriors great speed in battle.
In the old-time tattooing the lines were not merely pricked into the skin, but engraved with an instrument known as an ‘uhi’, which cut deeply into the flesh, with blood flowed freely at each incision. This operation was succeeded by considerable inflammation, and the carving took a long time to heal, with the process causing extreme pain for quite some time afterwards.
So at Turuturu-mokai the tattoo artist and his assistants moko’d many of the young men in this fashion - paying particular attention to the work on hips and thighs of the best warriors, the toa.
After several days the rituals and tattooing were complete and the tattoo party returned to Taki-Ruahine Pa, with their generous payment.
A few days later the blow fell. Just before daybreak, a vigorous war-party from Taki-Ruahine launched a ferocious attack on the unsuspecting Turuturu-mokai.
The toa (as the principal defenders) were in no condition to make any resistance, as they were still suffering from the strenuous moko operations - they lay incapacitated on their mats, their slightest movement agony.
The pa was therefore easily over-run. Wild and brutal scenes attended the sack of the Ngati-Tupaea stronghold, as the attacking party ran amok at will. Many of the inmates were cooked in earth ovens (dead or alive) - some body parts were consumed in customary ritualistic cannibal practices, while others provided lengthy feasts over the ensuing days for the victors. A miserable life of humiliating slavery was the lot of the survivors.
Historian John Huston tells the tale:
Many a pa of the old pre-European days was practically impregnable when attacked by a war party using native weapons. For this reason, more forts of the days before white man came were captured by stratagem, surprise or starvation than by actual assault - and a most ingenious stratagem caused the downfall of this ancient pa.
Although the tribes of Taranaki do not appear to have carried war into the territories of other tribes to any extent, local history discloses that the tribes and sub-tribes of Taranaki were almost continuously at war among themselves for hundreds of years.
For some reason long forgotten, long and bitter enemity existed between the neighbouring Taki-Tupaea and Taki-Ruahine (both sub tribes of Ngati-Ruanui) who feuded off-and-on for many, many years. However, some 300 years ago there was peace for a time between the two hapu.
During this temporary cessation of hostilities the Taki-Tupaea people (in occupation of what is now called Turuturu-Mokai ) were lulled into false security by time, but their old enemies still bitterly brooded over past events and cherished bloody vengeance: UTU!
The warrior chiefs of Taki-Ruahine conceived a brilliant and cunning plan whereby their tribesmen would be able to inflict a salutary defeat on the unsuspecting Taki-Tupaea, and so settle the outstanding account for vengeance, utu, once and for all.
In those days there was in Taranaki a tohung-ta-moko (tattooing expert) who was famed for the artistry and symmetry of his designs. The services of such an artist were at all times in great demand. It so happened that at that time this tohunga with his assistants was on a visit to Taki-Ruahine Pa. The leaders of that pa craftily proposed that the artist should visit the great fortress of Ngati-Tupaea and offer his services to the young warriors of that place. The garrison of Turuturu-mokai very naturally had no suspicion of any ulterior motive behind in the suggestion. They very readily assented, thus playing into the hands of the people of Taki-Ruahine. The young men were very eager to take advantage of the opportunity of being moko’d by such a revered artist and thereby gaining much mana for themselves, and increasing their likelihood of victory in any future martial contests.
Central to the plot was that particular attention should be given to engraving designs on the hips and thighs of the warriors. These were ‘rape’ (a curvilinear design on the hips) and ‘puhoro’ (a jagged design portraying lightning) on the thighs. The latter was considered to give the young warriors great speed in battle.
In the old-time tattooing the lines were not merely pricked into the skin, but engraved with an instrument known as an ‘uhi’, which cut deeply into the flesh, with blood flowed freely at each incision. This operation was succeeded by considerable inflammation, and the carving took a long time to heal, with the process causing extreme pain for quite some time afterwards.
So at Turuturu-mokai the tattoo artist and his assistants moko’d many of the young men in this fashion - paying particular attention to the work on hips and thighs of the best warriors, the toa.
After several days the rituals and tattooing were complete and the tattoo party returned to Taki-Ruahine Pa, with their generous payment.
A few days later the blow fell. Just before daybreak, a vigorous war-party from Taki-Ruahine launched a ferocious attack on the unsuspecting Turuturu-mokai.
The toa (as the principal defenders) were in no condition to make any resistance, as they were still suffering from the strenuous moko operations - they lay incapacitated on their mats, their slightest movement agony.
The pa was therefore easily over-run. Wild and brutal scenes attended the sack of the Ngati-Tupaea stronghold, as the attacking party ran amok at will. Many of the inmates were cooked in earth ovens (dead or alive) - some body parts were consumed in customary ritualistic cannibal practices, while others provided lengthy feasts over the ensuing days for the victors. A miserable life of humiliating slavery was the lot of the survivors.
After the general massacre the defending Ngati-Tupaea chiefs were decapitated, living or not (‘decollared’ in the now quaint language of the time), then their tattooed heads were smoke-dried and preserved.
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| Example of a mokai by Major-General Horatio Robley |
Following the general practice of the time in such circumstances, these smoke-dried heads (‘mokai’) of the slain were impaled on stakes thrust into the ground. The elaborate cloaks of the dead chiefs were draped over crossbars attached to the stakes.
Then the leaders of Taki-Ruahine haka’d backward and forward in front of these trophies of victory - taunting, mocking and insulting the dead, treating these ghastly totems as objects of the utmost derision.
It was from this circumstance that the old pa was given a ‘new' name, by which it is still known - “Turuturu-Mokai”: ‘Turututu’ = “pointed stakes," while ‘Mokai ="dried heads".
This event left a legacy of the deepest bitterness and rancour which survived well into the twentieth century.
Then the leaders of Taki-Ruahine haka’d backward and forward in front of these trophies of victory - taunting, mocking and insulting the dead, treating these ghastly totems as objects of the utmost derision.
It was from this circumstance that the old pa was given a ‘new' name, by which it is still known - “Turuturu-Mokai”: ‘Turututu’ = “pointed stakes," while ‘Mokai ="dried heads".
This event left a legacy of the deepest bitterness and rancour which survived well into the twentieth century.
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| Example of turuturu-mokai by Major-General Horatio Robley |
Meanwhile, the dreadful tapu of blood descended onto the site - evil, malignant, and harmful spiritual influences haunted the area, and so Turuturu-Mokai was abandoned and avoided with terror, gradually sinking into decay.
THE CLEANSING OF THE TAPU
The original name of the pa given by its Ngati-Tupaea builders has long since been forgotten during the centuries since the massacre. However, the defeated, and now regenerated, Ngati-Tupaea have never ceased to claim the pa as their own, and have resisted any claim to the contrary.
In the 1860‘s land wars between Maori and Pakeha ravaged Taranaki. In 1866 a company of the 18th Royal Irish Regiment constructed a redoubt at this location, which was attacked in 1868 by the war-chief and tohunga Titokowaru who inflicted severe losses on the small garrison.
[I will cover this incident in another blog post]
On 12th July, 1938, the 70th anniversary of the great fight between Maori and Pakeha, descendants of the Ngati-Tupaea formed a tapu-removing party which held a ceremony on the old pa site in order to set the ancient evils at rest for ever. The fortress was made free from evil, and is now safe for everyone.
Central to the cleansing proceedings was the erection of an especially carved post (named Taumata-atua) on the pa. The ancient designs on this post endow it with powerful mana - Taumata-atua protects all persons coming onto the old pa, so that no evil influences from the past will weaken them, or affect them in any way.
‘taumata’ = resting place on a hill; ‘atua’ = god
This post was still standing when I visited Turuturu-Mokai in December 2018:
In the 1860‘s land wars between Maori and Pakeha ravaged Taranaki. In 1866 a company of the 18th Royal Irish Regiment constructed a redoubt at this location, which was attacked in 1868 by the war-chief and tohunga Titokowaru who inflicted severe losses on the small garrison.
[I will cover this incident in another blog post]
On 12th July, 1938, the 70th anniversary of the great fight between Maori and Pakeha, descendants of the Ngati-Tupaea formed a tapu-removing party which held a ceremony on the old pa site in order to set the ancient evils at rest for ever. The fortress was made free from evil, and is now safe for everyone.
Central to the cleansing proceedings was the erection of an especially carved post (named Taumata-atua) on the pa. The ancient designs on this post endow it with powerful mana - Taumata-atua protects all persons coming onto the old pa, so that no evil influences from the past will weaken them, or affect them in any way.
‘taumata’ = resting place on a hill; ‘atua’ = god
This post was still standing when I visited Turuturu-Mokai in December 2018:
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| Taumata-atua |
[I will reference John Huston again to discuss the carvings of Taumata-atua in another blog post]
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| At the entrance to the reserve |
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| The pa site, looking north |
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| Approaching Taumata-atua |
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| The sacred post in its enclosure |
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| Taumata-atua |
ACCESS AND LOCATION:
Turuturu Mokai is located some 3km north of Hawera in south Taranaki, from Hawera on Glover Road turn right into Turuturu Road and continue for another kilometre. The site is on the left before Ohangai Road. There is parking off the road at the dilapidated entrance.
If you are in this area don’t miss the enthralling Tawhiti Museum which has a large detailed model of Turuturu Mokai pa, as well as other fascinating displays on aspects of the Third (South) Taranaki War - and lots more!
If you are in this area don’t miss the enthralling Tawhiti Museum which has a large detailed model of Turuturu Mokai pa, as well as other fascinating displays on aspects of the Third (South) Taranaki War - and lots more!
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